As Malivoire celebrated Shiraz Mottiar's appointment as Winemaker, we also knew that we had challenge on our hands. Through the preceding five years Shiraz had served proficiently in the essential role of Cellar Master. How to fill the vacuum? It's not always easy to find someone with maturity and experience who relishes the supporting role.

Cue Dan Stouck. Dan's family has farmed the same Beamsville-area property for well over a century and he is proud of his status as a fifth-generation grower. In his youth he witnessed the farm's transition as the original labrusca vines were uprooted to make way for vinifera varieties. Dan's greatest ambition is to, one day, hand the farm down to the sixth generation.

Although fascinated by viniculture, he knows that to fill the demanding role of Winemaker he would have to take time away from his family vineyard. For this reason, Dan aspires to excel in a more behind-the-scenes role as the Cellar Master.

Not that Dan has been a totally stay-at-home guy. As a member of the first graduating class of Niagara College's Winery and Viticulture programme, he worked for several Ontario wineries before traveling overseas to assist with the 2005 vintage in New Zealand. He has worked for wineries of every size and made wines of all descriptions, never relinquishing his role on the family farm.

Referring to Dan's deep local roots, wine agent Mary Delaney has called him 'The Prince of the Bench'. Characteristically modest, Dan winces. "Don't call me that", he says. Pressed for an appropriate sobriquet, he pauses. "I'd say... 'Dan' works too."